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The 7 warning signs associated with water well problems:
1. The well is pumping air, and well yield is reduced
2. The well is pumping sand or large amounts of sediment
3. Water pressure is low (pressure tank symptoms)
4. The power bill has skyrocketed
5. Water quality has changed
6. Dissolved gasses or bubbles and air in well water
7. The pressure switch and pump continuously cycle on and off (short-cycling).
1. The Well is Pumping Air
Certain water well problems show up after some years. A good example is when you turn on your kitchen faucet and out blasts a mixture of air and water. The worst-case scenario is that your water table has dropped to the point at or below the well pump, and the pump is drawing in the air sometime during the pump cycle.
Another cause is when the well pump drop pipe (the pipe that connects the pump to the top of the well and the water system) is broken. Drop pipes are either iron pipe, plastic PVC, or poly pipe.
They may become broken/corroded and develop cracks or even, in some instances, break apart, allowing air to be sucked in. This kind of problem needs to be looked into and repaired by a skilled well or pump company.
2. The Well is Pumping Sand or large amounts of sediment
If your water well suddenly starts to pump sand, this is often a sign that the well is silting in or filling with sand and silt. Typically, the well pump is installed so it is at least 10 – 20 feet above the bottom of the well.
When the pump turns on, the water level in the well can drop to a lower level. If the pump is down near the bottom of the well, sand and sediment can be sucked in.
Other causes for sand in water can be that the well screen has degraded and allows sand or sediment in from the gravel pack around the well screen.
Sand can quickly wear out the pump valves and fill up the bottom of the well with sand. In any case, the sudden presence of sand is not a good sign, and troubleshooting is required.
Sand can be removed from the water before the pressure tank or storage tank using a sand and sediment trapper or a 60 mesh filter screen with an automatic purge valve.
3. Low Water Pressure
If you are experiencing no water from the well, there can be many low water pressure causes, including a failing well pump, stuck check valve, partially closed or bad gate/ball valve, and leaking/failing pressure tank. In some cases, iron bacteria clog up the pipe nipple leading to the pressure switch causing the pressure switch to sense pressure incorrectly.
If the well water tests high in iron bacteria, your pump and/or well screen may become clogged with iron bacteria. Cleaning the well with a special solution designed to remove iron bacteria, slime, and scale can often restore the well to a better condition.
The pressure is often set to turn on at 30 PSI and off at 50 PSI in some well systems. For today’s homes and appliances, this pressure can be too low. Often it is possible to raise the pressure, so the pump turns on at 40 to 50 PSI and off at 60 to 70 PSI, providing adequate water pressure in the home.
The pressure switch can often be adjusted to accommodate this higher pressure, assuming the well pump and well can operate without difficulty at the higher pressure. If the pressure switch is adjusted, the air pressure inside the tank must be adjusted.
4. The Electricity Bill has Skyrocketed
When a pump wears out or becomes blocked with sand, silt, or iron bacteria, it needs to work much harder than if it was in good shape.
This overworking can result in an increasingly higher power cost. Another common cause of a high power bill is when the check valve in the well goes bad, causing “short cycling”. This allows water from the pressure tank to stream back down into the well.
This enables water from your pressure tank to flow back into the well, reducing pressure and signals to the pressure switch to turn the pump on again and pressurize the pressure tank.
This on and off-cycle may occur every few minutes and essentially allow the well pump to run practically 24 hours a day, causing a high power bill.
5. Water Quality has Changed
If you notice a sudden change in water quality, this can indicate that something has happened to your well shaft, casing, pump, or drop pipe. Sudden problems such as a large amount of sand, sediment, odors, or color can indicate that surface water has penetrated or leaked into your well.
The best thing to do if your well water quality changes sharply over a few days is to get your water tested. If you notice a big drop in water pressure or see large amounts of sand or grit, you should reach out to a well water professional such as your local well driller or licensed pump contractor.
If you don't have a local well contractor, a good place to start is, a National Groundwater Association service.
6. Dissolved gasses or bubbles in the water
Is the air dissolved in the water, or is it sputtering out of the tap in big bursts?
A professional well or pump contractor must investigate and repair these water well problems.
The water level is fine in some cases, and there aren’t any cracked pipes or fittings. Some groundwater tables do contain various types of gas. These gases may be dissolved within the water, yet later come out of the solution and trigger water to spurt or sputter out of the tap.
These gases may be carbon dioxide, methane, hydrogen sulfide, or other gases. Such gases can be harmful and cause significant safety and health problems. If this is an ongoing problem, the well can be treated to eliminate these gases using aeration and degassing systems.
7. Pressure Switch and Pump Continuously Cycles On and Off
A leak in the home can cause this water well problem, so the well pump continuously runs.
It can also be due to corrosion of the water well casing, liner, or screen, causing holes. Holes can allow water of undesirable quality to enter the well. Look for leaking toilet flush valves, reverse osmosis systems, iron filters, and other backwashing filter systems that may malfunction.
Also known as ‘short cycling,” this can cause your well pump to wear out prematurely and your electric bill to go up significantly. A common cause is a failed check valve. The check valve or foot valve prevents the well pressure tank from sending water back into the well after it has built up with water pressure.
If the valve fails, water streams down the well, and the pressure switch turns the pump on again. This on and off-cycle may occur every few minutes and essentially allow the well pump to run practically 24 hours a day, causing a high power bill. Replace the check valve, and the problem is solved.
Another widespread issue is the pressure tank losing its captive air pressure. This is easy to check.
Turn off power to the well pump and run water after the pressure tank or in the house until there is no water pressure left. Using a tire pressure gauge check the Schrader valve on top of the pressure tank. It should be 2 PSI less than the cut-in or lower pressure. If your well turns on at 30 and off at 50 PSI, it should have 28 PSI in it.
For more info contact pressure vessel suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
1. The well is pumping air, and well yield is reduced
2. The well is pumping sand or large amounts of sediment
3. Water pressure is low (pressure tank symptoms)
4. The power bill has skyrocketed
5. Water quality has changed
6. Dissolved gasses or bubbles and air in well water
7. The pressure switch and pump continuously cycle on and off (short-cycling).
1. The Well is Pumping Air
Certain water well problems show up after some years. A good example is when you turn on your kitchen faucet and out blasts a mixture of air and water. The worst-case scenario is that your water table has dropped to the point at or below the well pump, and the pump is drawing in the air sometime during the pump cycle.
Another cause is when the well pump drop pipe (the pipe that connects the pump to the top of the well and the water system) is broken. Drop pipes are either iron pipe, plastic PVC, or poly pipe.
They may become broken/corroded and develop cracks or even, in some instances, break apart, allowing air to be sucked in. This kind of problem needs to be looked into and repaired by a skilled well or pump company.
2. The Well is Pumping Sand or large amounts of sediment
If your water well suddenly starts to pump sand, this is often a sign that the well is silting in or filling with sand and silt. Typically, the well pump is installed so it is at least 10 – 20 feet above the bottom of the well.
When the pump turns on, the water level in the well can drop to a lower level. If the pump is down near the bottom of the well, sand and sediment can be sucked in.
Other causes for sand in water can be that the well screen has degraded and allows sand or sediment in from the gravel pack around the well screen.
Sand can quickly wear out the pump valves and fill up the bottom of the well with sand. In any case, the sudden presence of sand is not a good sign, and troubleshooting is required.
Sand can be removed from the water before the pressure tank or storage tank using a sand and sediment trapper or a 60 mesh filter screen with an automatic purge valve.
3. Low Water Pressure
If you are experiencing no water from the well, there can be many low water pressure causes, including a failing well pump, stuck check valve, partially closed or bad gate/ball valve, and leaking/failing pressure tank. In some cases, iron bacteria clog up the pipe nipple leading to the pressure switch causing the pressure switch to sense pressure incorrectly.
If the well water tests high in iron bacteria, your pump and/or well screen may become clogged with iron bacteria. Cleaning the well with a special solution designed to remove iron bacteria, slime, and scale can often restore the well to a better condition.
The pressure is often set to turn on at 30 PSI and off at 50 PSI in some well systems. For today’s homes and appliances, this pressure can be too low. Often it is possible to raise the pressure, so the pump turns on at 40 to 50 PSI and off at 60 to 70 PSI, providing adequate water pressure in the home.
The pressure switch can often be adjusted to accommodate this higher pressure, assuming the well pump and well can operate without difficulty at the higher pressure. If the pressure switch is adjusted, the air pressure inside the tank must be adjusted.
4. The Electricity Bill has Skyrocketed
When a pump wears out or becomes blocked with sand, silt, or iron bacteria, it needs to work much harder than if it was in good shape.
This overworking can result in an increasingly higher power cost. Another common cause of a high power bill is when the check valve in the well goes bad, causing “short cycling”. This allows water from the pressure tank to stream back down into the well.
This enables water from your pressure tank to flow back into the well, reducing pressure and signals to the pressure switch to turn the pump on again and pressurize the pressure tank.
This on and off-cycle may occur every few minutes and essentially allow the well pump to run practically 24 hours a day, causing a high power bill.
5. Water Quality has Changed
If you notice a sudden change in water quality, this can indicate that something has happened to your well shaft, casing, pump, or drop pipe. Sudden problems such as a large amount of sand, sediment, odors, or color can indicate that surface water has penetrated or leaked into your well.
The best thing to do if your well water quality changes sharply over a few days is to get your water tested. If you notice a big drop in water pressure or see large amounts of sand or grit, you should reach out to a well water professional such as your local well driller or licensed pump contractor.
If you don't have a local well contractor, a good place to start is, a National Groundwater Association service.
6. Dissolved gasses or bubbles in the water
Is the air dissolved in the water, or is it sputtering out of the tap in big bursts?
A professional well or pump contractor must investigate and repair these water well problems.
The water level is fine in some cases, and there aren’t any cracked pipes or fittings. Some groundwater tables do contain various types of gas. These gases may be dissolved within the water, yet later come out of the solution and trigger water to spurt or sputter out of the tap.
These gases may be carbon dioxide, methane, hydrogen sulfide, or other gases. Such gases can be harmful and cause significant safety and health problems. If this is an ongoing problem, the well can be treated to eliminate these gases using aeration and degassing systems.
7. Pressure Switch and Pump Continuously Cycles On and Off
A leak in the home can cause this water well problem, so the well pump continuously runs.
It can also be due to corrosion of the water well casing, liner, or screen, causing holes. Holes can allow water of undesirable quality to enter the well. Look for leaking toilet flush valves, reverse osmosis systems, iron filters, and other backwashing filter systems that may malfunction.
Also known as ‘short cycling,” this can cause your well pump to wear out prematurely and your electric bill to go up significantly. A common cause is a failed check valve. The check valve or foot valve prevents the well pressure tank from sending water back into the well after it has built up with water pressure.
If the valve fails, water streams down the well, and the pressure switch turns the pump on again. This on and off-cycle may occur every few minutes and essentially allow the well pump to run practically 24 hours a day, causing a high power bill. Replace the check valve, and the problem is solved.
Another widespread issue is the pressure tank losing its captive air pressure. This is easy to check.
Turn off power to the well pump and run water after the pressure tank or in the house until there is no water pressure left. Using a tire pressure gauge check the Schrader valve on top of the pressure tank. It should be 2 PSI less than the cut-in or lower pressure. If your well turns on at 30 and off at 50 PSI, it should have 28 PSI in it.
For more info contact pressure vessel suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
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