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In the world of fluid dynamics and pumping solutions, Teral holds a prominent place as a beacon of innovation and reliability. With a legacy of engineering excellence spanning years, Teral pumps have become synonymous with cutting-edge technology and unwavering performance. This article aims to introduce you to the world of Teral pumps, delving into the innovation that drives them and the reliability that has earned them a distinguished reputation.
A Glimpse into Teral's Heritage of Excellence:
- Embark on a journey through Teral's history, tracing its evolution from its inception to its current status as a market leader in the pump industry.
- Highlight key milestones that have shaped Teral's trajectory, demonstrating its commitment to pushing the boundaries of pump technology.
Innovation at the Heart of Teral:
- Explore the culture of innovation that defines Teral's approach to engineering and design.
- Discuss Teral's investment in research and development, showcasing how it has led to pioneering advancements in pump technology.
A Comprehensive Range of Pump Solutions:
- Introduce readers to the diverse portfolio of Teral pumps, spanning centrifugal, submersible, chemical, and other specialized pump types.
- Explain how each pump type is designed to excel in specific applications, meeting the unique demands of various industries.
Reliability as a Cornerstone:
- Delve into Teral's commitment to producing pumps known for their robustness and reliability.
- Discuss the meticulous quality control processes that ensure Teral pumps consistently deliver optimal performance, even in challenging conditions.
Customization for Varied Needs
- Highlight Teral's dedication to tailoring pump solutions to meet the specific requirements of different industries and applications.
- Showcase examples of how Teral pumps can be customized to optimize performance, efficiency, and longevity.
Energy Efficiency and Sustainability:
- Discuss Teral's contribution to energy efficiency through innovative designs and technologies.
- Explore how Teral pumps not only reduce operational costs but also play a role in reducing environmental impact.
Advanced Features and Technologies:
- Shed light on Teral's incorporation of advanced features such as digital monitoring systems, smart controls, and predictive maintenance capabilities.
- Illustrate how these technologies enhance pump performance, ease of use, and maintenance.
Industry Applications:
- Provide real-world examples of how Teral pumps have been instrumental in various industries, including water treatment, agriculture, manufacturing, and more.
- Showcase the versatility and adaptability of Teral pumps to different industrial contexts.
Customer-Centric Philosophy:
- Discuss Teral's customer-centric approach, emphasizing personalized support, technical expertise, and responsive customer service.
- Share stories of satisfied customers who have benefited from Teral's dedication to exceeding expectations.
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Stainless steel pumps are a type of pump that is constructed using stainless steel materials, which offers excellent durability and resistance to corrosion. These pumps are commonly used in a wide range of industries, including food and beverage, pharmaceutical, chemical processing, and wastewater treatment.
Stainless steel pumps are popular because they offer several advantages over other types of pumps, such as:
There are many different types of stainless steel pumps available, including centrifugal pumps, positive displacement pumps, and submersible pumps. The type of pump that is best suited for a particular application will depend on factors such as the type of fluid being pumped, the flow rate required, and the pressure needed.
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
Stainless steel pumps are popular because they offer several advantages over other types of pumps, such as:
- Durability: Stainless steel is a strong material that can withstand high pressures and temperatures, making it ideal for use in industrial applications.
- Corrosion Resistance: Stainless steel is highly resistant to corrosion, making it a suitable material for use in harsh environments, including those where corrosive fluids are present.
- Hygienic: Stainless steel pumps are easy to clean and sanitize, making them ideal for use in industries where hygiene is critical, such as the food and beverage and pharmaceutical industries.
- Aesthetics: Stainless steel pumps are aesthetically pleasing and can enhance the look of an industrial plant or facility.
There are many different types of stainless steel pumps available, including centrifugal pumps, positive displacement pumps, and submersible pumps. The type of pump that is best suited for a particular application will depend on factors such as the type of fluid being pumped, the flow rate required, and the pressure needed.
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
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Pump shafts are critical components of pumps that transfer power from the motor to the impeller to generate fluid flow. The selection of shaft material is influenced by the application requirements, including the fluid being pumped, the temperature, pressure, and corrosion resistance.
Some commonly used pump shaft materials include:
The selection of shaft material depends on the specific application requirements, and the manufacturer should be consulted to ensure the proper material is chosen for the application.
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Some commonly used pump shaft materials include:
- Stainless Steel: Stainless steel is widely used for pump shafts due to its high strength, corrosion resistance, and durability. It is often used in applications where the fluid being pumped is corrosive or requires high hygienic standards.
- Carbon Steel: Carbon steel is a popular choice for pump shafts due to its affordability and excellent mechanical properties. It is suitable for many applications, especially those involving water and other non-corrosive liquids.
- Ceramic: Ceramic shafts are often used in applications that require high wear resistance and low friction. They are commonly used in chemical pumps and other high-pressure applications.
- Titanium: Titanium is an excellent choice for pump shafts that require high strength and corrosion resistance, especially in seawater applications.
- Duplex Steel: Duplex steel is a type of stainless steel that has a high resistance to stress corrosion cracking and is suitable for applications involving seawater, acids, and other corrosive fluids.
- Bronze: Bronze shafts are often used in applications involving seawater, as they have good corrosion resistance and excellent wear resistance.
The selection of shaft material depends on the specific application requirements, and the manufacturer should be consulted to ensure the proper material is chosen for the application.
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
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The pump efficiency can be reduced by three of these losses: Mechanical, Volumetric, and Hydraulic. Moving components are related to mechanical losses such as bearing and glands; Leakage of fluid is related to Volumetric loss such as discharge side of the pump to the suction side and frictional forces that are created between the fluid walls of hydraulic passage that quickens and changes the fluid direction is related to hydraulic loss.
What Is Pump Corrosion?
Corrosion or erosion causes wear on the pump, impeller, suction side plate, or nozzle. In general, pump wear or material loss can easily cause the pump to deviate from its BEP (best efficiency point) curves. Either can reduce the MTBF (mean time between failures) and make finding the true root cause difficult. What most of us don't realize when dealing with these issues is that the whole cost of maintenance, production, and downtime can make the original pump cost appear extremely low. Erosion Corrosion is the result of a combination of erosion and corrosion occurring in the presence of a moving corrosive fluid or a metal component moving through the fluid, resulting in a rapid metal loss.
What causes Pump Corrosion?
When the mechanical effect of a fluid's flow or velocity is combined with the fluid's corrosive activity, the metal loss is accelerated. The mechanical removal of protective films is done in the initial stage and then the corrosion from the bare metal by a flowing corrosive takes place. Unless the tear of the component occurs, the process is cyclical. Corrosion-erosion is usually found around the tube blockage, in the ends of tube inlets or pump impellers. When both corrosion and erosion are present in the operating conditions, the degradation of the mechanism can become very complex and depends upon the substrate and the chemistry of fluid. Oxide layers are created by corrosion on the low adherence, to the substrate that is prone to erosion. The passive layers can be damaged by erosion that leads to activation on the surface that quickens corrosion. Protection on surfaces is the core solution in this type of case. Additional Read: Variables that Plant Engineers need to consider before Purchasing Industrial Pump
For more info contact submersible pump suppliers in uae or contact us at +971 4 252 2966
What Is Pump Corrosion?
Corrosion or erosion causes wear on the pump, impeller, suction side plate, or nozzle. In general, pump wear or material loss can easily cause the pump to deviate from its BEP (best efficiency point) curves. Either can reduce the MTBF (mean time between failures) and make finding the true root cause difficult. What most of us don't realize when dealing with these issues is that the whole cost of maintenance, production, and downtime can make the original pump cost appear extremely low. Erosion Corrosion is the result of a combination of erosion and corrosion occurring in the presence of a moving corrosive fluid or a metal component moving through the fluid, resulting in a rapid metal loss.
What causes Pump Corrosion?
When the mechanical effect of a fluid's flow or velocity is combined with the fluid's corrosive activity, the metal loss is accelerated. The mechanical removal of protective films is done in the initial stage and then the corrosion from the bare metal by a flowing corrosive takes place. Unless the tear of the component occurs, the process is cyclical. Corrosion-erosion is usually found around the tube blockage, in the ends of tube inlets or pump impellers. When both corrosion and erosion are present in the operating conditions, the degradation of the mechanism can become very complex and depends upon the substrate and the chemistry of fluid. Oxide layers are created by corrosion on the low adherence, to the substrate that is prone to erosion. The passive layers can be damaged by erosion that leads to activation on the surface that quickens corrosion. Protection on surfaces is the core solution in this type of case. Additional Read: Variables that Plant Engineers need to consider before Purchasing Industrial Pump
For more info contact submersible pump suppliers in uae or contact us at +971 4 252 2966
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The motor cooling method of a water-filled submersible pump is filled with water, whereas the motor cooling method of an oil-filled submersible pump is filled with mechanical oil, both of which have excellent cooling capabilities and are resistant to water. But both have different use cases, features, advantages, and disadvantages, keep reading to know more.
Difference Between Water & Oil Filled Submersible Pumps:
Due to the fact that submersible pumps are totally immersed underground under the water, the motor cooling method is often liquid rather than air. The pumps are available in two sorts of models based on this idea. The first uses water as a coolant, whereas the second uses oil as a coolant. Submersible pumps that we fill with water or oil are usually more efficient in safeguarding motors. Depending on the intended use, each of these categories has its own set of features and characteristics.
Application Of Water & Oil Filled Submersible Pump:
Oil filled submersible pumps consist of machinery oil, and the applications for both oil-filled and water-filled submersible pumps are distinct. Water towers, water distribution, flood protection and drainage, and municipal construction drainage are all common uses for these types of submersible pumps. The structure of the water-filled submersible pump is light and compact. It is thought to be excellent for small home needs and consumption. Water filled submersible pumps, on the other hand, are utilised in groundwater pumping, water delivery systems, circulation, and boosting for clean water. It contains ordinary water. The oil-filled submersible pump is preferred in the large residential, commercial, and industrial sectors. It's ideal for heavy-duty use because of the sturdy built-finish.
Electrical Winding System:
The electrical winding system is critical in allowing the device to run on electricity. To keep water out of a submersible pump that is filled with water, a PVC insulated wire is employed. Even if a short circuit occurs, you can simply repair the PVC wire without difficulty. A copper plated wire used in the oil-filled submersible pump ensures smooth and trouble-free operation. If a short-circuit occurs in the copper wire in this type of submersible pump, restoring the damage is difficult and time-consuming.
Sealing Of Submersible Pump:
To minimise serious malfunctions in submersible pumps, you should do the sealing strongly and correctly. But in the case of the water-filled submersible pump, it will continue to function normally even if it is damaged. This is because of the waterproof nature of the PVC wiring. When it comes to oil-filled submersible pumps, though, a faulty seal can cause a slew of issues. When water enters, it immediately causes oil leakage and damages the ball-bearing, causing the operation to stop. If the wire enameling is weak, it can potentially produce a short-circuit.
For more info contact submersible pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
Difference Between Water & Oil Filled Submersible Pumps:
Due to the fact that submersible pumps are totally immersed underground under the water, the motor cooling method is often liquid rather than air. The pumps are available in two sorts of models based on this idea. The first uses water as a coolant, whereas the second uses oil as a coolant. Submersible pumps that we fill with water or oil are usually more efficient in safeguarding motors. Depending on the intended use, each of these categories has its own set of features and characteristics.
Application Of Water & Oil Filled Submersible Pump:
Oil filled submersible pumps consist of machinery oil, and the applications for both oil-filled and water-filled submersible pumps are distinct. Water towers, water distribution, flood protection and drainage, and municipal construction drainage are all common uses for these types of submersible pumps. The structure of the water-filled submersible pump is light and compact. It is thought to be excellent for small home needs and consumption. Water filled submersible pumps, on the other hand, are utilised in groundwater pumping, water delivery systems, circulation, and boosting for clean water. It contains ordinary water. The oil-filled submersible pump is preferred in the large residential, commercial, and industrial sectors. It's ideal for heavy-duty use because of the sturdy built-finish.
Electrical Winding System:
The electrical winding system is critical in allowing the device to run on electricity. To keep water out of a submersible pump that is filled with water, a PVC insulated wire is employed. Even if a short circuit occurs, you can simply repair the PVC wire without difficulty. A copper plated wire used in the oil-filled submersible pump ensures smooth and trouble-free operation. If a short-circuit occurs in the copper wire in this type of submersible pump, restoring the damage is difficult and time-consuming.
Sealing Of Submersible Pump:
To minimise serious malfunctions in submersible pumps, you should do the sealing strongly and correctly. But in the case of the water-filled submersible pump, it will continue to function normally even if it is damaged. This is because of the waterproof nature of the PVC wiring. When it comes to oil-filled submersible pumps, though, a faulty seal can cause a slew of issues. When water enters, it immediately causes oil leakage and damages the ball-bearing, causing the operation to stop. If the wire enameling is weak, it can potentially produce a short-circuit.
For more info contact submersible pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
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Irrigation In many cases, submersible pumps are responsible for providing crops with water. Submersible pumps are critical to the long-term health of our food supply. With the task of moving large amounts of water from one location to another, submersible pumps have an extremely challenging and important job to do. Deep-well submersible pumps and vertical turbine pumps are the two most common submersible pump configurations used for irrigation. The location of the motor is the most significant difference between the two. A line shaft connects the engine to the pump itself in vertical turbine pumps installed above ground. To handle the high pressure of deep well submersible pumps, they have a more complex design that includes a submerged motor.
2. Pumping From Wells and Borewells Does your well or borehole provide enough water for your household? A method of transferring water from the well or borehole into storage tanks will be necessary when you're done. When it comes to this job, submersible pumps are the best choice. Pumping water from great depths doesn't strain their efficiency because they don't use a lot of power.
3. Construction and Building Most construction sites require water pumps to remove wastewater, which is typically a little flow that can be handled by a single-phase pump of up to 1.5kW and a head of up to 21 meters. Contractor pumps are characterized by their sturdy construction, adaptability to site conditions, and ability to move viscous liquids. There are a few things to keep in mind when you're looking for construction materials that can withstand the aggressive media that will be pumped on the construction site.
4. Industrial Application Portable, lightweight, and easy-to-handle submersible pumps are ideal for use in firefighting. Shafting and submersible pumps can be a lifesaver when dealing with deep and crooked wells. Draining water from flooded areas is easy with submersible pumps. On the other hand, Submersible pumps would not be damaged if they were placed in flooded areas. Submersible pumps are ideal for installing booster pumps in locations where noise reduction is a requirement. There is only a tiny amount of floor space available for installing water pumps. Still, the small size of submersible pumps makes it relatively simple to adjust them in such locations. Additional Read: Oil Filled V/s Water Filled Submersible Pumps – Which One To Choose?
5. Oil Extraction Submersible pumps operate in much the same way regardless of the fluid they pump. Because they can work against gravity, submersible pumps appeal to the oil industry in the same way that wastewater pumps do, even with minor alterations to account for viscosity differences. Unlike submersible pumps designed to handle water, Submersible Pumps used to extract oil can withstand a wide range of viscosity, temperature, and depth variations. Electrical submersible pumping systems are constructed to maximize durability and productivity even at such great depths as 4000 ft or higher, which is a standard operating depth.
6. Drainage of unwanted bodies of water Does your property have a pond or other body of water that you want to remove? Submersible pumps can be used to remove unwanted water from your property. They can also be used to remove water from flooded basements and other areas.
For more info contact submersible pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
2. Pumping From Wells and Borewells Does your well or borehole provide enough water for your household? A method of transferring water from the well or borehole into storage tanks will be necessary when you're done. When it comes to this job, submersible pumps are the best choice. Pumping water from great depths doesn't strain their efficiency because they don't use a lot of power.
3. Construction and Building Most construction sites require water pumps to remove wastewater, which is typically a little flow that can be handled by a single-phase pump of up to 1.5kW and a head of up to 21 meters. Contractor pumps are characterized by their sturdy construction, adaptability to site conditions, and ability to move viscous liquids. There are a few things to keep in mind when you're looking for construction materials that can withstand the aggressive media that will be pumped on the construction site.
4. Industrial Application Portable, lightweight, and easy-to-handle submersible pumps are ideal for use in firefighting. Shafting and submersible pumps can be a lifesaver when dealing with deep and crooked wells. Draining water from flooded areas is easy with submersible pumps. On the other hand, Submersible pumps would not be damaged if they were placed in flooded areas. Submersible pumps are ideal for installing booster pumps in locations where noise reduction is a requirement. There is only a tiny amount of floor space available for installing water pumps. Still, the small size of submersible pumps makes it relatively simple to adjust them in such locations. Additional Read: Oil Filled V/s Water Filled Submersible Pumps – Which One To Choose?
5. Oil Extraction Submersible pumps operate in much the same way regardless of the fluid they pump. Because they can work against gravity, submersible pumps appeal to the oil industry in the same way that wastewater pumps do, even with minor alterations to account for viscosity differences. Unlike submersible pumps designed to handle water, Submersible Pumps used to extract oil can withstand a wide range of viscosity, temperature, and depth variations. Electrical submersible pumping systems are constructed to maximize durability and productivity even at such great depths as 4000 ft or higher, which is a standard operating depth.
6. Drainage of unwanted bodies of water Does your property have a pond or other body of water that you want to remove? Submersible pumps can be used to remove unwanted water from your property. They can also be used to remove water from flooded basements and other areas.
For more info contact submersible pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
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After choosing a submersible pump, people often struggle with submersible well pumps installation due to its complexity and hard labor that it requires. However, when installed correctly, residences can enjoy the benefits of water well for several years. Read on to find out how you can install it correctly.
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- Erect the tripod with a chain block.
- Open submersible pump, remove strainer and cable guard.
- Vertically erect the submersible motor.
- Use the grub screw to couple the motor/pump shaft
- Apply threading mixture to the internal thread of the delivery casing and external area of the short length delivery pipe.
- Use the screw to fit the delivery casing with a short length of delivery pipe.
- Lift the shaft when assembled to examine the play.
- The coupling is mounted on the motor shaft for some products, while for others it’s fixed to the pump shaft by a grub screw. Carefully lower the pump with coupling mounted on the shaft to align it correctly until the bottom of the inlet bracket sits on the top housing. Additionally, the studs on top housing should easily pass through the holes of the inlet bracket.
- Use hexagonal nuts to screw tightly the motor's top housing with the inlet bracket.
- Lift the pump shaft with coupling to check the play.
- Check for free rotation.
- Re-fit the strainer and cable guard; ensure the cable guard properly covers the cable.
- At a distance of 20 feet from the Borewell’s bottom, install the pump.
- Fit the delivery pipe with a supporting clamp. Use the chain block to suspend the submersible pump.
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This can be figured out fairly easily, or approximated at least by checking the pump motor label and doing some calculations. On the pump label shown here (yours may look slightly different), you will find Volts and Amps listed. In this case, it shows volts as 115/230V which means that the motor is ‘reversible’ and can be operated at either 115V or 230V. The Amps are listed as 15.0 / 7.5 – which means that at 115V the motor draws 15A, and at 230V the draw is 7.5 Amps. For a larger motor over 2hp, you will commonly see only 230V listed and a single number to represent Amps used at maximum load.
Note that the pump label or ‘name plate’ shows the Maximum Amp Draw. Many pool pumps after start-up, will pull 1-2 less amps than listed on the nameplate. They can also draw more amps than listed too, if it is too large for the system and plumbing, or there is a low-voltage problem. To get an exact reading of your amp draw, you could use an amp meter, but this requires technical several steps – Danny at Inyopools does a great job explaining how to use an ammeter on a pool pump.
The next steps involve some math:
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Note that the pump label or ‘name plate’ shows the Maximum Amp Draw. Many pool pumps after start-up, will pull 1-2 less amps than listed on the nameplate. They can also draw more amps than listed too, if it is too large for the system and plumbing, or there is a low-voltage problem. To get an exact reading of your amp draw, you could use an amp meter, but this requires technical several steps – Danny at Inyopools does a great job explaining how to use an ammeter on a pool pump.
The next steps involve some math:
- Multiply: Volts X Amps = Watts. In our particular example, assuming 230 volts, 230V x 7.5A = 1725 Watts
- Divide: Watts / 1000 = KiloWatts (Kw). In our example, 1725 / 1000 = 1.725 Kw
- Multiply: Kw X Hours per day of running the pump. For example, 1.725 Kw X 10 hours = 17.25 kWh per day
- Multiply: kWh/day X Cost per Kilowatt. For example 17.25 kWh X .12 cents/kWh* = $2.07 per day
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
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Pool pumps are not overly complicated, but they can have complications. The heart of your circulation system, swimming pool pumps will need repair from time to time, to keep them operating in tip-top shape.
Today, we’ll cover the most common pool pump problems that pool owners deal with, and some solutions you can try to bring your pool pump back online, or prevent damage.
Pool pump problems can take many forms, and not all pump problems are …pump problems. Valves, filters, skimmer baskets can all affect and be affected by, your pool pump.
PUMP WON’T TURN ON
When the pool pump ain’t working, ain’t nothing working. And it’s an urgent problem, as you can only maintain the pool clarity for a few days without the circulation pump.
If you hear no noise when you flip the switch to turn on, no sounds at all, check the circuit breaker for the pump, and flip it off and back on again. If the pump still won’t turn on, check the timeclock ‘visual motor check’ on Intermatic time clocks, to look for gears turning, indicating there is power supplied to the time clock. Aboveground pumps which are plugged into an outlet can also check the GFCI test button, to be sure that it hasn’t popped.
If you are familiar with using a test meter, you can test the power at the switch, or timeclock – and if power is reaching the switch or timeclock, then you can remove the back of the motor and test the leads on the motor, to be sure that the same amount of voltage is reaching the pump motor.
If you do hear a noise, like a buzz or hum coming from the motor, this is a sign that power is reaching the motor, but is having trouble starting the motor. Problems could be a bad capacitor, or centrifugal switch, or it could mean that the motor is ‘frozen’, from a buildup of internal rust. It could also mean that the impeller or fan is clogged. With power off, spin the motor shaft by hand, either by turning the impeller, or accessing the shaft at the rear of the motor (loosen the capacitor to gain access to shaft with a 7/16″ wrench). If the shaft spins freely, look for a bulged or cracked capacitor, or loose wire connections, or a faulty centrifugal switch (screwed onto rear of motor shaft).
PUMP WON’T TURN OFF
Not a normal occurrence, but if the pool pump won’t shut off by the timer, have you got an ‘OFF’ dog on the timeclock (or two ‘ON’ dogs)? On some timeclocks, when the clock is within a 1/2 of turning on or off, the manual tab is blocked by the timer dog (tripper), and won’t push to off. You can rotate the dial, or shut off the pump with the breaker. Does the timeclock dial spin, and keeping correct time? It may be bent, or not engaging the gear behind the timer dial. If you have just a switch, and not a timeclock, the pump not shutting off would be a faulty or mis-wired switch. Some two-speed pumps are meant to run all the time, on low speed for 18 hours daily, and high speed for 6 hours. Aboveground pumps which plug into an outlet will also run 24 hrs/day, unless a small plug-in timer is utilized.
PUMP WON’T CATCH PRIME
Many inground pool pumps have trouble from time to time getting the water moving. Some pumps need to be reprimed 3-4 times before they ‘catch’, so keep a bucket or garden hose handy. The most common source of pool pump not catching prime are air leaks before the impeller. Check that the pump lid is tight, with a lubed o-ring. Drain plugs should also be tightened with thread sealant. Most importantly, the threaded pipe that screws into the pump can shrink or become loose over time. Test it with shaving cream to see if the pump is sucking air around the incoming pipe fitting. If so, replumb the pump with a new fitting and thread sealant, or pack around the pump inlet with pool putty, and leave pump running for 24 hrs to allow putty to set up.
If not an air leak (prior to the pump), it could be an obstruction in the suction pipes (main drain / skimmer), or the pump basket or impeller (or both) could be clogged with small debris.. Finally, incoming directional valves or check valves can break (or just be closed), blocking water flow into the pump.
PUMP NOT PUMPING FULLY
If your pump is not running at ‘full head’, you can tell this by lower pressure on the filter gauge, and if you have a clear pump lid, you will see slow swirling water mixed with air. Pool pumps don’t get ‘tired’, and lose their oomph over time – there is another problem at hand. As described above, check for air leaks in front of the pump, and look for any obstructions, clogged or blocked pipes or valves, before the pump. After the pump, obstructions or clogs will cause higher pressure on the filter, so if your low flow problem is coupled with high filter pressure, check the filter, filter valve and return side pipes and valves for clogs or obstructions.
PUMP IS LEAKING WATER
Pumps can leak water from many areas, but the prime suspects are the mechanical shaft seal and the effluent pipe fitting, the one that is screwed into the pump outlet. Check around the pipe fitting, to be sure the area is dry. If so, look under the pump to see exactly where the water is coming from. It will either be leaking out along the motor shaft (shaft seal failure), or it will be leaking where the seal plate connects with the volute, caused by a loose clamp band, or misaligned o-ring. In cases of freeze damage or a water hammer effect, some pumps will develops cracks in the volute or pump basket housing.
PUMP MOTOR IS LOUD OR NOISY
Inside of your pump motor, the rotor spins within the stator, propelled to 3450 RPM by the alternating negative and positive attraction. On each end of the rotor shaft is a sealed bearing, pressed into place and removable with bearing pullers. Over time, usually 6-8 years, the bearings will wear out and begin to screech and shriek. Replacement of the bearings or replacing the motor is the solution to this problem. Other pump noises include cavitation, when the pump is starved for water due to a clog or closed valve. This sound is distinctly different from bad bearings, more of a low growling sound, or like the pump is gargling rocks.
PUMP MOTOR IS RUSTY AND BURNED
Some pump motors can turn all sorts of colors from the heat generated by the motor, or hot spots on the windings. Pool pump motors run at around 150 degrees, too hot to touch, so a ‘hot’ motor can be considered normal. Burned spots or burned paint, or rusty motors may not indicate a problem with the motor, and can operate just fine internally, even when they don’t look so hot externally. You can paint the motor if you wish, just tape over the label, and hit it with some black Rustoleum type paint.
PUMP MOTOR IS OVERHEATING
Pump motors are designed with a Thermal Overload switch, located at 12:00 as you look at the back of the motor. If a motor overheats itself, the overload switch will shut off the motor for 10 minutes or so, and when the temperature reduces, you will hear the click (if you are close by and listening), as the switch resets itself. In most cases, an overheating motor has dead spots or hot spots on the windings and will need to be replaced with a new motor. In some cases however, a motor may only overheat on very hot days with direct sunshine, or it may overheat from mulch or dirt built up around the motor vents. Fans or shade can help the first problem, and cleaning up around the pump (and maybe a chat with your landscaper) will solve the second problem.
PUMP HOUSING IS CRACKED
Freeze damage from expanding ice inside the pump, or a water hammer effect caused by quickly closing off valves after the filter, or turning the filter multiport valve while the pump is running. The pump housing is also known as the volute or impeller housing. Pump housing could also refer to the hair & lint pot, or the pump basket housing. Either the pump pot or the volute can crack or warp from excessive heat. Replacement of the specific pump parts that are cracked is easily done, or the entire pump can be replaced, if the motor is also failing, or is more than 8 years old.
PUMP LID WON’T COME OFF
It’s common that pool guys or homeowners really tighten down on the pump lid when screwing it on, in an effort to prevent air leaks around the pump lid o-ring. If you can’t remove the pump lid, there are lid removal tools made specifically for the purpose, or you can make your own. I’ve seen homeowners carve a 2×4 with an internal opening that fits the raised part in the middle of a pump, but most pump lids have raised tabs on the sides of the raised middle part, and you can use a large screwdriver or a heavy bar or block of wood to use as a lever on the pump lid. And remember, lefty loosey, righty tighty – or turn it counter clockwise to remove the pump lid.
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Today, we’ll cover the most common pool pump problems that pool owners deal with, and some solutions you can try to bring your pool pump back online, or prevent damage.
Pool pump problems can take many forms, and not all pump problems are …pump problems. Valves, filters, skimmer baskets can all affect and be affected by, your pool pump.
PUMP WON’T TURN ON
When the pool pump ain’t working, ain’t nothing working. And it’s an urgent problem, as you can only maintain the pool clarity for a few days without the circulation pump.
If you hear no noise when you flip the switch to turn on, no sounds at all, check the circuit breaker for the pump, and flip it off and back on again. If the pump still won’t turn on, check the timeclock ‘visual motor check’ on Intermatic time clocks, to look for gears turning, indicating there is power supplied to the time clock. Aboveground pumps which are plugged into an outlet can also check the GFCI test button, to be sure that it hasn’t popped.
If you are familiar with using a test meter, you can test the power at the switch, or timeclock – and if power is reaching the switch or timeclock, then you can remove the back of the motor and test the leads on the motor, to be sure that the same amount of voltage is reaching the pump motor.
If you do hear a noise, like a buzz or hum coming from the motor, this is a sign that power is reaching the motor, but is having trouble starting the motor. Problems could be a bad capacitor, or centrifugal switch, or it could mean that the motor is ‘frozen’, from a buildup of internal rust. It could also mean that the impeller or fan is clogged. With power off, spin the motor shaft by hand, either by turning the impeller, or accessing the shaft at the rear of the motor (loosen the capacitor to gain access to shaft with a 7/16″ wrench). If the shaft spins freely, look for a bulged or cracked capacitor, or loose wire connections, or a faulty centrifugal switch (screwed onto rear of motor shaft).
PUMP WON’T TURN OFF
Not a normal occurrence, but if the pool pump won’t shut off by the timer, have you got an ‘OFF’ dog on the timeclock (or two ‘ON’ dogs)? On some timeclocks, when the clock is within a 1/2 of turning on or off, the manual tab is blocked by the timer dog (tripper), and won’t push to off. You can rotate the dial, or shut off the pump with the breaker. Does the timeclock dial spin, and keeping correct time? It may be bent, or not engaging the gear behind the timer dial. If you have just a switch, and not a timeclock, the pump not shutting off would be a faulty or mis-wired switch. Some two-speed pumps are meant to run all the time, on low speed for 18 hours daily, and high speed for 6 hours. Aboveground pumps which plug into an outlet will also run 24 hrs/day, unless a small plug-in timer is utilized.
PUMP WON’T CATCH PRIME
Many inground pool pumps have trouble from time to time getting the water moving. Some pumps need to be reprimed 3-4 times before they ‘catch’, so keep a bucket or garden hose handy. The most common source of pool pump not catching prime are air leaks before the impeller. Check that the pump lid is tight, with a lubed o-ring. Drain plugs should also be tightened with thread sealant. Most importantly, the threaded pipe that screws into the pump can shrink or become loose over time. Test it with shaving cream to see if the pump is sucking air around the incoming pipe fitting. If so, replumb the pump with a new fitting and thread sealant, or pack around the pump inlet with pool putty, and leave pump running for 24 hrs to allow putty to set up.
If not an air leak (prior to the pump), it could be an obstruction in the suction pipes (main drain / skimmer), or the pump basket or impeller (or both) could be clogged with small debris.. Finally, incoming directional valves or check valves can break (or just be closed), blocking water flow into the pump.
PUMP NOT PUMPING FULLY
If your pump is not running at ‘full head’, you can tell this by lower pressure on the filter gauge, and if you have a clear pump lid, you will see slow swirling water mixed with air. Pool pumps don’t get ‘tired’, and lose their oomph over time – there is another problem at hand. As described above, check for air leaks in front of the pump, and look for any obstructions, clogged or blocked pipes or valves, before the pump. After the pump, obstructions or clogs will cause higher pressure on the filter, so if your low flow problem is coupled with high filter pressure, check the filter, filter valve and return side pipes and valves for clogs or obstructions.
PUMP IS LEAKING WATER
Pumps can leak water from many areas, but the prime suspects are the mechanical shaft seal and the effluent pipe fitting, the one that is screwed into the pump outlet. Check around the pipe fitting, to be sure the area is dry. If so, look under the pump to see exactly where the water is coming from. It will either be leaking out along the motor shaft (shaft seal failure), or it will be leaking where the seal plate connects with the volute, caused by a loose clamp band, or misaligned o-ring. In cases of freeze damage or a water hammer effect, some pumps will develops cracks in the volute or pump basket housing.
PUMP MOTOR IS LOUD OR NOISY
Inside of your pump motor, the rotor spins within the stator, propelled to 3450 RPM by the alternating negative and positive attraction. On each end of the rotor shaft is a sealed bearing, pressed into place and removable with bearing pullers. Over time, usually 6-8 years, the bearings will wear out and begin to screech and shriek. Replacement of the bearings or replacing the motor is the solution to this problem. Other pump noises include cavitation, when the pump is starved for water due to a clog or closed valve. This sound is distinctly different from bad bearings, more of a low growling sound, or like the pump is gargling rocks.
PUMP MOTOR IS RUSTY AND BURNED
Some pump motors can turn all sorts of colors from the heat generated by the motor, or hot spots on the windings. Pool pump motors run at around 150 degrees, too hot to touch, so a ‘hot’ motor can be considered normal. Burned spots or burned paint, or rusty motors may not indicate a problem with the motor, and can operate just fine internally, even when they don’t look so hot externally. You can paint the motor if you wish, just tape over the label, and hit it with some black Rustoleum type paint.
PUMP MOTOR IS OVERHEATING
Pump motors are designed with a Thermal Overload switch, located at 12:00 as you look at the back of the motor. If a motor overheats itself, the overload switch will shut off the motor for 10 minutes or so, and when the temperature reduces, you will hear the click (if you are close by and listening), as the switch resets itself. In most cases, an overheating motor has dead spots or hot spots on the windings and will need to be replaced with a new motor. In some cases however, a motor may only overheat on very hot days with direct sunshine, or it may overheat from mulch or dirt built up around the motor vents. Fans or shade can help the first problem, and cleaning up around the pump (and maybe a chat with your landscaper) will solve the second problem.
PUMP HOUSING IS CRACKED
Freeze damage from expanding ice inside the pump, or a water hammer effect caused by quickly closing off valves after the filter, or turning the filter multiport valve while the pump is running. The pump housing is also known as the volute or impeller housing. Pump housing could also refer to the hair & lint pot, or the pump basket housing. Either the pump pot or the volute can crack or warp from excessive heat. Replacement of the specific pump parts that are cracked is easily done, or the entire pump can be replaced, if the motor is also failing, or is more than 8 years old.
PUMP LID WON’T COME OFF
It’s common that pool guys or homeowners really tighten down on the pump lid when screwing it on, in an effort to prevent air leaks around the pump lid o-ring. If you can’t remove the pump lid, there are lid removal tools made specifically for the purpose, or you can make your own. I’ve seen homeowners carve a 2×4 with an internal opening that fits the raised part in the middle of a pump, but most pump lids have raised tabs on the sides of the raised middle part, and you can use a large screwdriver or a heavy bar or block of wood to use as a lever on the pump lid. And remember, lefty loosey, righty tighty – or turn it counter clockwise to remove the pump lid.
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
- Published on
The pool pump is the heart of your pool circulation system. And just like your precious heart, when the pool pump stops working, nothing works.
Today’s post has a catchy title, but it’s really about how to maintain a healthy pool pump, to avoid any unexpected pump problems, which can cause water problems, fast.
Here’s a list then, of Eleven Ways to Destroy a Pool Pump, along with related pool pump maintenance tips and pump care practices to help you avoid “heart failure”!
FROZEN POOL PUMP
Problem: Water expands 9% when it turns into ice, and this can rupture a pool pump volute or strainer housing, causing cracks that require part replacement.
Solution: Keep the pump running during cold temperatures. As long as water is moving through the pipes, nothing will freeze. If it is not possible to run the pump, remove both pump drain plugs (and filter plugs, heater plugs, chlorinator, etc.). With freeze protection for pool equipment, a pool controller or a digital timeclock can use a freeze sensor, which will turn on the pump automatically.
FLOODED POOL PUMP
Problem: When motors are submerged under water, the drowning is usually fatal. Occasionally a partially submerged motor will survive, if taken apart and dried internally, unless it was running at the time of the flooding! Many pumps start out their lives well above the ground, but over years, sediment and debris can raise the ground until there is very little clearance.
Solution: Raise the pump, or lower the ground! Be sure that the area around your pool equipment drains rapidly during heavy rains. If flood waters threaten your pool pump, sand bag the pad, or remove the pump to higher ground until waters recede. If water no longer runs away from the equipment quickly, dig out any in-fill or soils that have washed up against the pad, grading slopes and swales to carry water away. Add gravel around the pump and filter area to reduce moisture and slow weed growth.
DRY POOL PUMP
Problem: Pumps that ‘run dry’ (without incoming water) for long periods of time can blow out the shaft seal and begin leaking. In some cases it will melt pump baskets and even deform the pump volute. Resulting high temps also will shrink the threads on PVC fittings threaded in/out of the pump, causing air leaks on the inlet side, and water leaks around the outlet pipe fitting.
Solution: Maintaining a proper water level in the pool is the first advice. Secondly, hunt down and fix any air leaks on the incoming pipes or suction cleaner hoses, which can cause the pump to lose prime. Finally, be sure that the pump lid is lubed and tight, and drain plugs are Teflon taped and tight. The other common air leak is around melted and shrunk PVC fittings threaded into the pump, as mentioned above. Replace the shrunken fitting, or make a patch with Pool Putty.
WET POOL PUMP
Problem: Bushes, weeds and overhanging trees trap moisture and restrict air flow around pool pumps. Soil and mulch around pumps and low areas trap water and moisture. Pump motors will last longer in dry conditions.
Solution: Trim bushes and plants as needed to reduce moisture and increase air flow. Use gravel and remove or spray weeds regularly, to keep the pump area a plant-free zone.
HOT POOL PUMP
Problem: Motors need good air circulation to stay cool while running, which also helps a pool motor last longer. Plants, mulch or enclosed spaces block the breeze. Direct sun will also raise motor temperature.
Solution: Motors are always hot to the touch, running at around 140 degrees. Good air circulation reduces motor temps. Pump motor shields can be used to block sunlight.
WRONG SIZE PUMP
Problem: Pumps that are too big for the pipe size or number of incoming pipes will cavitate under excessive vacuum pressure, essentially starved for water. And pool pumps that are too small for the system will struggle against a heavy resistance pressure. In both cases, the pump and motor is overworked; a leading cause of heart (pump) failure.
Solution: Select new pool pumps based on a careful consultation of the Pump Flow Curve, with a good estimate of your system resistance, and the knowledge of your Filter Design Flow Rate. Replacing with the exact duplicate pump is a good bet, or an IntelliFlo or EcoStar variable speed pump can be optimized to match system resistance. When in doubt, contact our call center to speak with a pool tech, or leave me a comment below. We need to know all about your pool and every piece of equipment, and how far the equipment is from the pool, pipe size and type of pipe used, among other details.
WRONG PUMP WIRING
Problem: Incorrect voltage, wire size or wiring. High or low voltage over time can stress the motor, or just flat burn it out, causing a short across the windings or blowing out the capacitor repeatedly. Pool motors are available in 120V and 240V (only), and also 120V/240V, known as reversible motors, able to accept either voltage. Connecting 120V into a motor that is expecting 240V just won’t start the motor, but putting 240V into a motor wired for 120V and you can expect sparks and smoke and a dead motor if not shut off quickly! Mis-wired motors, or using incorrect wire size could also cause motor problems.
Solution: Line voltage should be stable and within 10% of 115V or 230V, whichever is used. When installing a new motor, double check that line voltage matches motor voltage. Read the wiring diagram closely on the motor label to be sure that your power leads and ground wire are correctly attached to the terminal board. Although modern motors are fairly straight-forward with the power connection, it is possible to mis-wire a motor. And, if replacing old wires, be sure to use the correct wire size, usually 12/3, or 12 AWG size, three wires, usually white, black and green.
INSECT INFESTATION
Problem: Insects can chew through wires or can short out circuitry as they seek the warmth and shelter of the pump motor, becoming a conductor between two metals that should not touch. This can happen in the rear of the pump motor, or in the timeclock or control panel. Wasp or hornets nests can also make a mess.
Solution: Insecticide as needed. Seal up any open knock-outs, and block any other access points to control panels and motors.
HEAVY MULCH
Problem: Mulch is very acidic and traps moisture, creating an acrid humid air around the pump motor, which can be corrosive to metallic pump parts. And when each spring another 2″ of mulch is laid down, over time this raises the ground level, reducing air flow and in some cases increasing the chances of flooding the pool pump.
Solution: Use Gravel, Not Mulch around your pool equipment. Use a rake or leaf blower regularly to remove sticks, leaves or ‘natural mulch’.
HEAVY SNOW
Problem: Pool pumps under a pile of snow cannot breathe. Without air circulation, moisture is trapped inside the motor. Repeated freeze/thaw cycles creates internal rust between the stator and rotor, causing motors to ‘lock-up’ come spring. Small amounts of snow are of little concern; but extended periods of heavy snow should be avoided.
Solution: Use an upside down Rubbermaid container, or laundry basket to cover the pump, cut out on side to fit snugly over the pump and/or motor. Be sure to allow for sufficient air flow on all sides, so as not to trap moisture inside. For the same reason, never wrap a motor tightly in plastic. An even better method is to install pool pump unions for easy winter removal, and indoor storage.
HEAVY BRANCHES
Problem: Heavy branches that fall, just right across a pool pump motor or on top of the pump lid, can do considerable damage to pool pumps. Not often, but it happens occasionally.
Solution: Trim branches as needed.
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
Today’s post has a catchy title, but it’s really about how to maintain a healthy pool pump, to avoid any unexpected pump problems, which can cause water problems, fast.
Here’s a list then, of Eleven Ways to Destroy a Pool Pump, along with related pool pump maintenance tips and pump care practices to help you avoid “heart failure”!
FROZEN POOL PUMP
Problem: Water expands 9% when it turns into ice, and this can rupture a pool pump volute or strainer housing, causing cracks that require part replacement.
Solution: Keep the pump running during cold temperatures. As long as water is moving through the pipes, nothing will freeze. If it is not possible to run the pump, remove both pump drain plugs (and filter plugs, heater plugs, chlorinator, etc.). With freeze protection for pool equipment, a pool controller or a digital timeclock can use a freeze sensor, which will turn on the pump automatically.
FLOODED POOL PUMP
Problem: When motors are submerged under water, the drowning is usually fatal. Occasionally a partially submerged motor will survive, if taken apart and dried internally, unless it was running at the time of the flooding! Many pumps start out their lives well above the ground, but over years, sediment and debris can raise the ground until there is very little clearance.
Solution: Raise the pump, or lower the ground! Be sure that the area around your pool equipment drains rapidly during heavy rains. If flood waters threaten your pool pump, sand bag the pad, or remove the pump to higher ground until waters recede. If water no longer runs away from the equipment quickly, dig out any in-fill or soils that have washed up against the pad, grading slopes and swales to carry water away. Add gravel around the pump and filter area to reduce moisture and slow weed growth.
DRY POOL PUMP
Problem: Pumps that ‘run dry’ (without incoming water) for long periods of time can blow out the shaft seal and begin leaking. In some cases it will melt pump baskets and even deform the pump volute. Resulting high temps also will shrink the threads on PVC fittings threaded in/out of the pump, causing air leaks on the inlet side, and water leaks around the outlet pipe fitting.
Solution: Maintaining a proper water level in the pool is the first advice. Secondly, hunt down and fix any air leaks on the incoming pipes or suction cleaner hoses, which can cause the pump to lose prime. Finally, be sure that the pump lid is lubed and tight, and drain plugs are Teflon taped and tight. The other common air leak is around melted and shrunk PVC fittings threaded into the pump, as mentioned above. Replace the shrunken fitting, or make a patch with Pool Putty.
WET POOL PUMP
Problem: Bushes, weeds and overhanging trees trap moisture and restrict air flow around pool pumps. Soil and mulch around pumps and low areas trap water and moisture. Pump motors will last longer in dry conditions.
Solution: Trim bushes and plants as needed to reduce moisture and increase air flow. Use gravel and remove or spray weeds regularly, to keep the pump area a plant-free zone.
HOT POOL PUMP
Problem: Motors need good air circulation to stay cool while running, which also helps a pool motor last longer. Plants, mulch or enclosed spaces block the breeze. Direct sun will also raise motor temperature.
Solution: Motors are always hot to the touch, running at around 140 degrees. Good air circulation reduces motor temps. Pump motor shields can be used to block sunlight.
WRONG SIZE PUMP
Problem: Pumps that are too big for the pipe size or number of incoming pipes will cavitate under excessive vacuum pressure, essentially starved for water. And pool pumps that are too small for the system will struggle against a heavy resistance pressure. In both cases, the pump and motor is overworked; a leading cause of heart (pump) failure.
Solution: Select new pool pumps based on a careful consultation of the Pump Flow Curve, with a good estimate of your system resistance, and the knowledge of your Filter Design Flow Rate. Replacing with the exact duplicate pump is a good bet, or an IntelliFlo or EcoStar variable speed pump can be optimized to match system resistance. When in doubt, contact our call center to speak with a pool tech, or leave me a comment below. We need to know all about your pool and every piece of equipment, and how far the equipment is from the pool, pipe size and type of pipe used, among other details.
WRONG PUMP WIRING
Problem: Incorrect voltage, wire size or wiring. High or low voltage over time can stress the motor, or just flat burn it out, causing a short across the windings or blowing out the capacitor repeatedly. Pool motors are available in 120V and 240V (only), and also 120V/240V, known as reversible motors, able to accept either voltage. Connecting 120V into a motor that is expecting 240V just won’t start the motor, but putting 240V into a motor wired for 120V and you can expect sparks and smoke and a dead motor if not shut off quickly! Mis-wired motors, or using incorrect wire size could also cause motor problems.
Solution: Line voltage should be stable and within 10% of 115V or 230V, whichever is used. When installing a new motor, double check that line voltage matches motor voltage. Read the wiring diagram closely on the motor label to be sure that your power leads and ground wire are correctly attached to the terminal board. Although modern motors are fairly straight-forward with the power connection, it is possible to mis-wire a motor. And, if replacing old wires, be sure to use the correct wire size, usually 12/3, or 12 AWG size, three wires, usually white, black and green.
INSECT INFESTATION
Problem: Insects can chew through wires or can short out circuitry as they seek the warmth and shelter of the pump motor, becoming a conductor between two metals that should not touch. This can happen in the rear of the pump motor, or in the timeclock or control panel. Wasp or hornets nests can also make a mess.
Solution: Insecticide as needed. Seal up any open knock-outs, and block any other access points to control panels and motors.
HEAVY MULCH
Problem: Mulch is very acidic and traps moisture, creating an acrid humid air around the pump motor, which can be corrosive to metallic pump parts. And when each spring another 2″ of mulch is laid down, over time this raises the ground level, reducing air flow and in some cases increasing the chances of flooding the pool pump.
Solution: Use Gravel, Not Mulch around your pool equipment. Use a rake or leaf blower regularly to remove sticks, leaves or ‘natural mulch’.
HEAVY SNOW
Problem: Pool pumps under a pile of snow cannot breathe. Without air circulation, moisture is trapped inside the motor. Repeated freeze/thaw cycles creates internal rust between the stator and rotor, causing motors to ‘lock-up’ come spring. Small amounts of snow are of little concern; but extended periods of heavy snow should be avoided.
Solution: Use an upside down Rubbermaid container, or laundry basket to cover the pump, cut out on side to fit snugly over the pump and/or motor. Be sure to allow for sufficient air flow on all sides, so as not to trap moisture inside. For the same reason, never wrap a motor tightly in plastic. An even better method is to install pool pump unions for easy winter removal, and indoor storage.
HEAVY BRANCHES
Problem: Heavy branches that fall, just right across a pool pump motor or on top of the pump lid, can do considerable damage to pool pumps. Not often, but it happens occasionally.
Solution: Trim branches as needed.
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
