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This can be figured out fairly easily, or approximated at least by checking the pump motor label and doing some calculations. On the pump label shown here (yours may look slightly different), you will find Volts and Amps listed. In this case, it shows volts as 115/230V which means that the motor is ‘reversible’ and can be operated at either 115V or 230V. The Amps are listed as 15.0 / 7.5 – which means that at 115V the motor draws 15A, and at 230V the draw is 7.5 Amps. For a larger motor over 2hp, you will commonly see only 230V listed and a single number to represent Amps used at maximum load.
Note that the pump label or ‘name plate’ shows the Maximum Amp Draw. Many pool pumps after start-up, will pull 1-2 less amps than listed on the nameplate. They can also draw more amps than listed too, if it is too large for the system and plumbing, or there is a low-voltage problem. To get an exact reading of your amp draw, you could use an amp meter, but this requires technical several steps – Danny at Inyopools does a great job explaining how to use an ammeter on a pool pump.
The next steps involve some math:
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
Note that the pump label or ‘name plate’ shows the Maximum Amp Draw. Many pool pumps after start-up, will pull 1-2 less amps than listed on the nameplate. They can also draw more amps than listed too, if it is too large for the system and plumbing, or there is a low-voltage problem. To get an exact reading of your amp draw, you could use an amp meter, but this requires technical several steps – Danny at Inyopools does a great job explaining how to use an ammeter on a pool pump.
The next steps involve some math:
- Multiply: Volts X Amps = Watts. In our particular example, assuming 230 volts, 230V x 7.5A = 1725 Watts
- Divide: Watts / 1000 = KiloWatts (Kw). In our example, 1725 / 1000 = 1.725 Kw
- Multiply: Kw X Hours per day of running the pump. For example, 1.725 Kw X 10 hours = 17.25 kWh per day
- Multiply: kWh/day X Cost per Kilowatt. For example 17.25 kWh X .12 cents/kWh* = $2.07 per day
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
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Pool pumps are not overly complicated, but they can have complications. The heart of your circulation system, swimming pool pumps will need repair from time to time, to keep them operating in tip-top shape.
Today, we’ll cover the most common pool pump problems that pool owners deal with, and some solutions you can try to bring your pool pump back online, or prevent damage.
Pool pump problems can take many forms, and not all pump problems are …pump problems. Valves, filters, skimmer baskets can all affect and be affected by, your pool pump.
PUMP WON’T TURN ON
When the pool pump ain’t working, ain’t nothing working. And it’s an urgent problem, as you can only maintain the pool clarity for a few days without the circulation pump.
If you hear no noise when you flip the switch to turn on, no sounds at all, check the circuit breaker for the pump, and flip it off and back on again. If the pump still won’t turn on, check the timeclock ‘visual motor check’ on Intermatic time clocks, to look for gears turning, indicating there is power supplied to the time clock. Aboveground pumps which are plugged into an outlet can also check the GFCI test button, to be sure that it hasn’t popped.
If you are familiar with using a test meter, you can test the power at the switch, or timeclock – and if power is reaching the switch or timeclock, then you can remove the back of the motor and test the leads on the motor, to be sure that the same amount of voltage is reaching the pump motor.
If you do hear a noise, like a buzz or hum coming from the motor, this is a sign that power is reaching the motor, but is having trouble starting the motor. Problems could be a bad capacitor, or centrifugal switch, or it could mean that the motor is ‘frozen’, from a buildup of internal rust. It could also mean that the impeller or fan is clogged. With power off, spin the motor shaft by hand, either by turning the impeller, or accessing the shaft at the rear of the motor (loosen the capacitor to gain access to shaft with a 7/16″ wrench). If the shaft spins freely, look for a bulged or cracked capacitor, or loose wire connections, or a faulty centrifugal switch (screwed onto rear of motor shaft).
PUMP WON’T TURN OFF
Not a normal occurrence, but if the pool pump won’t shut off by the timer, have you got an ‘OFF’ dog on the timeclock (or two ‘ON’ dogs)? On some timeclocks, when the clock is within a 1/2 of turning on or off, the manual tab is blocked by the timer dog (tripper), and won’t push to off. You can rotate the dial, or shut off the pump with the breaker. Does the timeclock dial spin, and keeping correct time? It may be bent, or not engaging the gear behind the timer dial. If you have just a switch, and not a timeclock, the pump not shutting off would be a faulty or mis-wired switch. Some two-speed pumps are meant to run all the time, on low speed for 18 hours daily, and high speed for 6 hours. Aboveground pumps which plug into an outlet will also run 24 hrs/day, unless a small plug-in timer is utilized.
PUMP WON’T CATCH PRIME
Many inground pool pumps have trouble from time to time getting the water moving. Some pumps need to be reprimed 3-4 times before they ‘catch’, so keep a bucket or garden hose handy. The most common source of pool pump not catching prime are air leaks before the impeller. Check that the pump lid is tight, with a lubed o-ring. Drain plugs should also be tightened with thread sealant. Most importantly, the threaded pipe that screws into the pump can shrink or become loose over time. Test it with shaving cream to see if the pump is sucking air around the incoming pipe fitting. If so, replumb the pump with a new fitting and thread sealant, or pack around the pump inlet with pool putty, and leave pump running for 24 hrs to allow putty to set up.
If not an air leak (prior to the pump), it could be an obstruction in the suction pipes (main drain / skimmer), or the pump basket or impeller (or both) could be clogged with small debris.. Finally, incoming directional valves or check valves can break (or just be closed), blocking water flow into the pump.
PUMP NOT PUMPING FULLY
If your pump is not running at ‘full head’, you can tell this by lower pressure on the filter gauge, and if you have a clear pump lid, you will see slow swirling water mixed with air. Pool pumps don’t get ‘tired’, and lose their oomph over time – there is another problem at hand. As described above, check for air leaks in front of the pump, and look for any obstructions, clogged or blocked pipes or valves, before the pump. After the pump, obstructions or clogs will cause higher pressure on the filter, so if your low flow problem is coupled with high filter pressure, check the filter, filter valve and return side pipes and valves for clogs or obstructions.
PUMP IS LEAKING WATER
Pumps can leak water from many areas, but the prime suspects are the mechanical shaft seal and the effluent pipe fitting, the one that is screwed into the pump outlet. Check around the pipe fitting, to be sure the area is dry. If so, look under the pump to see exactly where the water is coming from. It will either be leaking out along the motor shaft (shaft seal failure), or it will be leaking where the seal plate connects with the volute, caused by a loose clamp band, or misaligned o-ring. In cases of freeze damage or a water hammer effect, some pumps will develops cracks in the volute or pump basket housing.
PUMP MOTOR IS LOUD OR NOISY
Inside of your pump motor, the rotor spins within the stator, propelled to 3450 RPM by the alternating negative and positive attraction. On each end of the rotor shaft is a sealed bearing, pressed into place and removable with bearing pullers. Over time, usually 6-8 years, the bearings will wear out and begin to screech and shriek. Replacement of the bearings or replacing the motor is the solution to this problem. Other pump noises include cavitation, when the pump is starved for water due to a clog or closed valve. This sound is distinctly different from bad bearings, more of a low growling sound, or like the pump is gargling rocks.
PUMP MOTOR IS RUSTY AND BURNED
Some pump motors can turn all sorts of colors from the heat generated by the motor, or hot spots on the windings. Pool pump motors run at around 150 degrees, too hot to touch, so a ‘hot’ motor can be considered normal. Burned spots or burned paint, or rusty motors may not indicate a problem with the motor, and can operate just fine internally, even when they don’t look so hot externally. You can paint the motor if you wish, just tape over the label, and hit it with some black Rustoleum type paint.
PUMP MOTOR IS OVERHEATING
Pump motors are designed with a Thermal Overload switch, located at 12:00 as you look at the back of the motor. If a motor overheats itself, the overload switch will shut off the motor for 10 minutes or so, and when the temperature reduces, you will hear the click (if you are close by and listening), as the switch resets itself. In most cases, an overheating motor has dead spots or hot spots on the windings and will need to be replaced with a new motor. In some cases however, a motor may only overheat on very hot days with direct sunshine, or it may overheat from mulch or dirt built up around the motor vents. Fans or shade can help the first problem, and cleaning up around the pump (and maybe a chat with your landscaper) will solve the second problem.
PUMP HOUSING IS CRACKED
Freeze damage from expanding ice inside the pump, or a water hammer effect caused by quickly closing off valves after the filter, or turning the filter multiport valve while the pump is running. The pump housing is also known as the volute or impeller housing. Pump housing could also refer to the hair & lint pot, or the pump basket housing. Either the pump pot or the volute can crack or warp from excessive heat. Replacement of the specific pump parts that are cracked is easily done, or the entire pump can be replaced, if the motor is also failing, or is more than 8 years old.
PUMP LID WON’T COME OFF
It’s common that pool guys or homeowners really tighten down on the pump lid when screwing it on, in an effort to prevent air leaks around the pump lid o-ring. If you can’t remove the pump lid, there are lid removal tools made specifically for the purpose, or you can make your own. I’ve seen homeowners carve a 2×4 with an internal opening that fits the raised part in the middle of a pump, but most pump lids have raised tabs on the sides of the raised middle part, and you can use a large screwdriver or a heavy bar or block of wood to use as a lever on the pump lid. And remember, lefty loosey, righty tighty – or turn it counter clockwise to remove the pump lid.
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
Today, we’ll cover the most common pool pump problems that pool owners deal with, and some solutions you can try to bring your pool pump back online, or prevent damage.
Pool pump problems can take many forms, and not all pump problems are …pump problems. Valves, filters, skimmer baskets can all affect and be affected by, your pool pump.
PUMP WON’T TURN ON
When the pool pump ain’t working, ain’t nothing working. And it’s an urgent problem, as you can only maintain the pool clarity for a few days without the circulation pump.
If you hear no noise when you flip the switch to turn on, no sounds at all, check the circuit breaker for the pump, and flip it off and back on again. If the pump still won’t turn on, check the timeclock ‘visual motor check’ on Intermatic time clocks, to look for gears turning, indicating there is power supplied to the time clock. Aboveground pumps which are plugged into an outlet can also check the GFCI test button, to be sure that it hasn’t popped.
If you are familiar with using a test meter, you can test the power at the switch, or timeclock – and if power is reaching the switch or timeclock, then you can remove the back of the motor and test the leads on the motor, to be sure that the same amount of voltage is reaching the pump motor.
If you do hear a noise, like a buzz or hum coming from the motor, this is a sign that power is reaching the motor, but is having trouble starting the motor. Problems could be a bad capacitor, or centrifugal switch, or it could mean that the motor is ‘frozen’, from a buildup of internal rust. It could also mean that the impeller or fan is clogged. With power off, spin the motor shaft by hand, either by turning the impeller, or accessing the shaft at the rear of the motor (loosen the capacitor to gain access to shaft with a 7/16″ wrench). If the shaft spins freely, look for a bulged or cracked capacitor, or loose wire connections, or a faulty centrifugal switch (screwed onto rear of motor shaft).
PUMP WON’T TURN OFF
Not a normal occurrence, but if the pool pump won’t shut off by the timer, have you got an ‘OFF’ dog on the timeclock (or two ‘ON’ dogs)? On some timeclocks, when the clock is within a 1/2 of turning on or off, the manual tab is blocked by the timer dog (tripper), and won’t push to off. You can rotate the dial, or shut off the pump with the breaker. Does the timeclock dial spin, and keeping correct time? It may be bent, or not engaging the gear behind the timer dial. If you have just a switch, and not a timeclock, the pump not shutting off would be a faulty or mis-wired switch. Some two-speed pumps are meant to run all the time, on low speed for 18 hours daily, and high speed for 6 hours. Aboveground pumps which plug into an outlet will also run 24 hrs/day, unless a small plug-in timer is utilized.
PUMP WON’T CATCH PRIME
Many inground pool pumps have trouble from time to time getting the water moving. Some pumps need to be reprimed 3-4 times before they ‘catch’, so keep a bucket or garden hose handy. The most common source of pool pump not catching prime are air leaks before the impeller. Check that the pump lid is tight, with a lubed o-ring. Drain plugs should also be tightened with thread sealant. Most importantly, the threaded pipe that screws into the pump can shrink or become loose over time. Test it with shaving cream to see if the pump is sucking air around the incoming pipe fitting. If so, replumb the pump with a new fitting and thread sealant, or pack around the pump inlet with pool putty, and leave pump running for 24 hrs to allow putty to set up.
If not an air leak (prior to the pump), it could be an obstruction in the suction pipes (main drain / skimmer), or the pump basket or impeller (or both) could be clogged with small debris.. Finally, incoming directional valves or check valves can break (or just be closed), blocking water flow into the pump.
PUMP NOT PUMPING FULLY
If your pump is not running at ‘full head’, you can tell this by lower pressure on the filter gauge, and if you have a clear pump lid, you will see slow swirling water mixed with air. Pool pumps don’t get ‘tired’, and lose their oomph over time – there is another problem at hand. As described above, check for air leaks in front of the pump, and look for any obstructions, clogged or blocked pipes or valves, before the pump. After the pump, obstructions or clogs will cause higher pressure on the filter, so if your low flow problem is coupled with high filter pressure, check the filter, filter valve and return side pipes and valves for clogs or obstructions.
PUMP IS LEAKING WATER
Pumps can leak water from many areas, but the prime suspects are the mechanical shaft seal and the effluent pipe fitting, the one that is screwed into the pump outlet. Check around the pipe fitting, to be sure the area is dry. If so, look under the pump to see exactly where the water is coming from. It will either be leaking out along the motor shaft (shaft seal failure), or it will be leaking where the seal plate connects with the volute, caused by a loose clamp band, or misaligned o-ring. In cases of freeze damage or a water hammer effect, some pumps will develops cracks in the volute or pump basket housing.
PUMP MOTOR IS LOUD OR NOISY
Inside of your pump motor, the rotor spins within the stator, propelled to 3450 RPM by the alternating negative and positive attraction. On each end of the rotor shaft is a sealed bearing, pressed into place and removable with bearing pullers. Over time, usually 6-8 years, the bearings will wear out and begin to screech and shriek. Replacement of the bearings or replacing the motor is the solution to this problem. Other pump noises include cavitation, when the pump is starved for water due to a clog or closed valve. This sound is distinctly different from bad bearings, more of a low growling sound, or like the pump is gargling rocks.
PUMP MOTOR IS RUSTY AND BURNED
Some pump motors can turn all sorts of colors from the heat generated by the motor, or hot spots on the windings. Pool pump motors run at around 150 degrees, too hot to touch, so a ‘hot’ motor can be considered normal. Burned spots or burned paint, or rusty motors may not indicate a problem with the motor, and can operate just fine internally, even when they don’t look so hot externally. You can paint the motor if you wish, just tape over the label, and hit it with some black Rustoleum type paint.
PUMP MOTOR IS OVERHEATING
Pump motors are designed with a Thermal Overload switch, located at 12:00 as you look at the back of the motor. If a motor overheats itself, the overload switch will shut off the motor for 10 minutes or so, and when the temperature reduces, you will hear the click (if you are close by and listening), as the switch resets itself. In most cases, an overheating motor has dead spots or hot spots on the windings and will need to be replaced with a new motor. In some cases however, a motor may only overheat on very hot days with direct sunshine, or it may overheat from mulch or dirt built up around the motor vents. Fans or shade can help the first problem, and cleaning up around the pump (and maybe a chat with your landscaper) will solve the second problem.
PUMP HOUSING IS CRACKED
Freeze damage from expanding ice inside the pump, or a water hammer effect caused by quickly closing off valves after the filter, or turning the filter multiport valve while the pump is running. The pump housing is also known as the volute or impeller housing. Pump housing could also refer to the hair & lint pot, or the pump basket housing. Either the pump pot or the volute can crack or warp from excessive heat. Replacement of the specific pump parts that are cracked is easily done, or the entire pump can be replaced, if the motor is also failing, or is more than 8 years old.
PUMP LID WON’T COME OFF
It’s common that pool guys or homeowners really tighten down on the pump lid when screwing it on, in an effort to prevent air leaks around the pump lid o-ring. If you can’t remove the pump lid, there are lid removal tools made specifically for the purpose, or you can make your own. I’ve seen homeowners carve a 2×4 with an internal opening that fits the raised part in the middle of a pump, but most pump lids have raised tabs on the sides of the raised middle part, and you can use a large screwdriver or a heavy bar or block of wood to use as a lever on the pump lid. And remember, lefty loosey, righty tighty – or turn it counter clockwise to remove the pump lid.
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
- Published on
The pool pump is the heart of your pool circulation system. And just like your precious heart, when the pool pump stops working, nothing works.
Today’s post has a catchy title, but it’s really about how to maintain a healthy pool pump, to avoid any unexpected pump problems, which can cause water problems, fast.
Here’s a list then, of Eleven Ways to Destroy a Pool Pump, along with related pool pump maintenance tips and pump care practices to help you avoid “heart failure”!
FROZEN POOL PUMP
Problem: Water expands 9% when it turns into ice, and this can rupture a pool pump volute or strainer housing, causing cracks that require part replacement.
Solution: Keep the pump running during cold temperatures. As long as water is moving through the pipes, nothing will freeze. If it is not possible to run the pump, remove both pump drain plugs (and filter plugs, heater plugs, chlorinator, etc.). With freeze protection for pool equipment, a pool controller or a digital timeclock can use a freeze sensor, which will turn on the pump automatically.
FLOODED POOL PUMP
Problem: When motors are submerged under water, the drowning is usually fatal. Occasionally a partially submerged motor will survive, if taken apart and dried internally, unless it was running at the time of the flooding! Many pumps start out their lives well above the ground, but over years, sediment and debris can raise the ground until there is very little clearance.
Solution: Raise the pump, or lower the ground! Be sure that the area around your pool equipment drains rapidly during heavy rains. If flood waters threaten your pool pump, sand bag the pad, or remove the pump to higher ground until waters recede. If water no longer runs away from the equipment quickly, dig out any in-fill or soils that have washed up against the pad, grading slopes and swales to carry water away. Add gravel around the pump and filter area to reduce moisture and slow weed growth.
DRY POOL PUMP
Problem: Pumps that ‘run dry’ (without incoming water) for long periods of time can blow out the shaft seal and begin leaking. In some cases it will melt pump baskets and even deform the pump volute. Resulting high temps also will shrink the threads on PVC fittings threaded in/out of the pump, causing air leaks on the inlet side, and water leaks around the outlet pipe fitting.
Solution: Maintaining a proper water level in the pool is the first advice. Secondly, hunt down and fix any air leaks on the incoming pipes or suction cleaner hoses, which can cause the pump to lose prime. Finally, be sure that the pump lid is lubed and tight, and drain plugs are Teflon taped and tight. The other common air leak is around melted and shrunk PVC fittings threaded into the pump, as mentioned above. Replace the shrunken fitting, or make a patch with Pool Putty.
WET POOL PUMP
Problem: Bushes, weeds and overhanging trees trap moisture and restrict air flow around pool pumps. Soil and mulch around pumps and low areas trap water and moisture. Pump motors will last longer in dry conditions.
Solution: Trim bushes and plants as needed to reduce moisture and increase air flow. Use gravel and remove or spray weeds regularly, to keep the pump area a plant-free zone.
HOT POOL PUMP
Problem: Motors need good air circulation to stay cool while running, which also helps a pool motor last longer. Plants, mulch or enclosed spaces block the breeze. Direct sun will also raise motor temperature.
Solution: Motors are always hot to the touch, running at around 140 degrees. Good air circulation reduces motor temps. Pump motor shields can be used to block sunlight.
WRONG SIZE PUMP
Problem: Pumps that are too big for the pipe size or number of incoming pipes will cavitate under excessive vacuum pressure, essentially starved for water. And pool pumps that are too small for the system will struggle against a heavy resistance pressure. In both cases, the pump and motor is overworked; a leading cause of heart (pump) failure.
Solution: Select new pool pumps based on a careful consultation of the Pump Flow Curve, with a good estimate of your system resistance, and the knowledge of your Filter Design Flow Rate. Replacing with the exact duplicate pump is a good bet, or an IntelliFlo or EcoStar variable speed pump can be optimized to match system resistance. When in doubt, contact our call center to speak with a pool tech, or leave me a comment below. We need to know all about your pool and every piece of equipment, and how far the equipment is from the pool, pipe size and type of pipe used, among other details.
WRONG PUMP WIRING
Problem: Incorrect voltage, wire size or wiring. High or low voltage over time can stress the motor, or just flat burn it out, causing a short across the windings or blowing out the capacitor repeatedly. Pool motors are available in 120V and 240V (only), and also 120V/240V, known as reversible motors, able to accept either voltage. Connecting 120V into a motor that is expecting 240V just won’t start the motor, but putting 240V into a motor wired for 120V and you can expect sparks and smoke and a dead motor if not shut off quickly! Mis-wired motors, or using incorrect wire size could also cause motor problems.
Solution: Line voltage should be stable and within 10% of 115V or 230V, whichever is used. When installing a new motor, double check that line voltage matches motor voltage. Read the wiring diagram closely on the motor label to be sure that your power leads and ground wire are correctly attached to the terminal board. Although modern motors are fairly straight-forward with the power connection, it is possible to mis-wire a motor. And, if replacing old wires, be sure to use the correct wire size, usually 12/3, or 12 AWG size, three wires, usually white, black and green.
INSECT INFESTATION
Problem: Insects can chew through wires or can short out circuitry as they seek the warmth and shelter of the pump motor, becoming a conductor between two metals that should not touch. This can happen in the rear of the pump motor, or in the timeclock or control panel. Wasp or hornets nests can also make a mess.
Solution: Insecticide as needed. Seal up any open knock-outs, and block any other access points to control panels and motors.
HEAVY MULCH
Problem: Mulch is very acidic and traps moisture, creating an acrid humid air around the pump motor, which can be corrosive to metallic pump parts. And when each spring another 2″ of mulch is laid down, over time this raises the ground level, reducing air flow and in some cases increasing the chances of flooding the pool pump.
Solution: Use Gravel, Not Mulch around your pool equipment. Use a rake or leaf blower regularly to remove sticks, leaves or ‘natural mulch’.
HEAVY SNOW
Problem: Pool pumps under a pile of snow cannot breathe. Without air circulation, moisture is trapped inside the motor. Repeated freeze/thaw cycles creates internal rust between the stator and rotor, causing motors to ‘lock-up’ come spring. Small amounts of snow are of little concern; but extended periods of heavy snow should be avoided.
Solution: Use an upside down Rubbermaid container, or laundry basket to cover the pump, cut out on side to fit snugly over the pump and/or motor. Be sure to allow for sufficient air flow on all sides, so as not to trap moisture inside. For the same reason, never wrap a motor tightly in plastic. An even better method is to install pool pump unions for easy winter removal, and indoor storage.
HEAVY BRANCHES
Problem: Heavy branches that fall, just right across a pool pump motor or on top of the pump lid, can do considerable damage to pool pumps. Not often, but it happens occasionally.
Solution: Trim branches as needed.
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
Today’s post has a catchy title, but it’s really about how to maintain a healthy pool pump, to avoid any unexpected pump problems, which can cause water problems, fast.
Here’s a list then, of Eleven Ways to Destroy a Pool Pump, along with related pool pump maintenance tips and pump care practices to help you avoid “heart failure”!
FROZEN POOL PUMP
Problem: Water expands 9% when it turns into ice, and this can rupture a pool pump volute or strainer housing, causing cracks that require part replacement.
Solution: Keep the pump running during cold temperatures. As long as water is moving through the pipes, nothing will freeze. If it is not possible to run the pump, remove both pump drain plugs (and filter plugs, heater plugs, chlorinator, etc.). With freeze protection for pool equipment, a pool controller or a digital timeclock can use a freeze sensor, which will turn on the pump automatically.
FLOODED POOL PUMP
Problem: When motors are submerged under water, the drowning is usually fatal. Occasionally a partially submerged motor will survive, if taken apart and dried internally, unless it was running at the time of the flooding! Many pumps start out their lives well above the ground, but over years, sediment and debris can raise the ground until there is very little clearance.
Solution: Raise the pump, or lower the ground! Be sure that the area around your pool equipment drains rapidly during heavy rains. If flood waters threaten your pool pump, sand bag the pad, or remove the pump to higher ground until waters recede. If water no longer runs away from the equipment quickly, dig out any in-fill or soils that have washed up against the pad, grading slopes and swales to carry water away. Add gravel around the pump and filter area to reduce moisture and slow weed growth.
DRY POOL PUMP
Problem: Pumps that ‘run dry’ (without incoming water) for long periods of time can blow out the shaft seal and begin leaking. In some cases it will melt pump baskets and even deform the pump volute. Resulting high temps also will shrink the threads on PVC fittings threaded in/out of the pump, causing air leaks on the inlet side, and water leaks around the outlet pipe fitting.
Solution: Maintaining a proper water level in the pool is the first advice. Secondly, hunt down and fix any air leaks on the incoming pipes or suction cleaner hoses, which can cause the pump to lose prime. Finally, be sure that the pump lid is lubed and tight, and drain plugs are Teflon taped and tight. The other common air leak is around melted and shrunk PVC fittings threaded into the pump, as mentioned above. Replace the shrunken fitting, or make a patch with Pool Putty.
WET POOL PUMP
Problem: Bushes, weeds and overhanging trees trap moisture and restrict air flow around pool pumps. Soil and mulch around pumps and low areas trap water and moisture. Pump motors will last longer in dry conditions.
Solution: Trim bushes and plants as needed to reduce moisture and increase air flow. Use gravel and remove or spray weeds regularly, to keep the pump area a plant-free zone.
HOT POOL PUMP
Problem: Motors need good air circulation to stay cool while running, which also helps a pool motor last longer. Plants, mulch or enclosed spaces block the breeze. Direct sun will also raise motor temperature.
Solution: Motors are always hot to the touch, running at around 140 degrees. Good air circulation reduces motor temps. Pump motor shields can be used to block sunlight.
WRONG SIZE PUMP
Problem: Pumps that are too big for the pipe size or number of incoming pipes will cavitate under excessive vacuum pressure, essentially starved for water. And pool pumps that are too small for the system will struggle against a heavy resistance pressure. In both cases, the pump and motor is overworked; a leading cause of heart (pump) failure.
Solution: Select new pool pumps based on a careful consultation of the Pump Flow Curve, with a good estimate of your system resistance, and the knowledge of your Filter Design Flow Rate. Replacing with the exact duplicate pump is a good bet, or an IntelliFlo or EcoStar variable speed pump can be optimized to match system resistance. When in doubt, contact our call center to speak with a pool tech, or leave me a comment below. We need to know all about your pool and every piece of equipment, and how far the equipment is from the pool, pipe size and type of pipe used, among other details.
WRONG PUMP WIRING
Problem: Incorrect voltage, wire size or wiring. High or low voltage over time can stress the motor, or just flat burn it out, causing a short across the windings or blowing out the capacitor repeatedly. Pool motors are available in 120V and 240V (only), and also 120V/240V, known as reversible motors, able to accept either voltage. Connecting 120V into a motor that is expecting 240V just won’t start the motor, but putting 240V into a motor wired for 120V and you can expect sparks and smoke and a dead motor if not shut off quickly! Mis-wired motors, or using incorrect wire size could also cause motor problems.
Solution: Line voltage should be stable and within 10% of 115V or 230V, whichever is used. When installing a new motor, double check that line voltage matches motor voltage. Read the wiring diagram closely on the motor label to be sure that your power leads and ground wire are correctly attached to the terminal board. Although modern motors are fairly straight-forward with the power connection, it is possible to mis-wire a motor. And, if replacing old wires, be sure to use the correct wire size, usually 12/3, or 12 AWG size, three wires, usually white, black and green.
INSECT INFESTATION
Problem: Insects can chew through wires or can short out circuitry as they seek the warmth and shelter of the pump motor, becoming a conductor between two metals that should not touch. This can happen in the rear of the pump motor, or in the timeclock or control panel. Wasp or hornets nests can also make a mess.
Solution: Insecticide as needed. Seal up any open knock-outs, and block any other access points to control panels and motors.
HEAVY MULCH
Problem: Mulch is very acidic and traps moisture, creating an acrid humid air around the pump motor, which can be corrosive to metallic pump parts. And when each spring another 2″ of mulch is laid down, over time this raises the ground level, reducing air flow and in some cases increasing the chances of flooding the pool pump.
Solution: Use Gravel, Not Mulch around your pool equipment. Use a rake or leaf blower regularly to remove sticks, leaves or ‘natural mulch’.
HEAVY SNOW
Problem: Pool pumps under a pile of snow cannot breathe. Without air circulation, moisture is trapped inside the motor. Repeated freeze/thaw cycles creates internal rust between the stator and rotor, causing motors to ‘lock-up’ come spring. Small amounts of snow are of little concern; but extended periods of heavy snow should be avoided.
Solution: Use an upside down Rubbermaid container, or laundry basket to cover the pump, cut out on side to fit snugly over the pump and/or motor. Be sure to allow for sufficient air flow on all sides, so as not to trap moisture inside. For the same reason, never wrap a motor tightly in plastic. An even better method is to install pool pump unions for easy winter removal, and indoor storage.
HEAVY BRANCHES
Problem: Heavy branches that fall, just right across a pool pump motor or on top of the pump lid, can do considerable damage to pool pumps. Not often, but it happens occasionally.
Solution: Trim branches as needed.
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
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1. Shut off power at the breaker. Remove motor from pump housing. Remove wiring harness from rear of motor.
2. Remove pump diffuser. Hold shaft at rear of motor with pliers/wrench, and spin impeller off shaft, counter-clockwise.
3. Lubricate 4 through-bolts with WD-40. Gently loosen and remove through-bolts. Mark or make a scratch across end bell and body of motor to line up later.
4. Use a flathead screw driver and small hammer to loosen and pry off the front end bell (the end where the impeller attaches).
5. If entire rotor does not come out, pry off the rear end bell.
6. Clean the bearings and look closely at the bearing number.
7. Using bearing pullers, pull off the old bearings. Clean the shaft and use a tamping tool, or a piece of pvc pipe to help set the bearing in place on the shaft.
8. Reassemble the rotor into the stator, secure the end bells in the marked or scored positions made earlier, and tighten down the through-bolts.
9. Reassemble the impeller, wear ring (if present), reverse threaded impeller screw (if present), diffuser and wiring to rear of motor.
10. Test motor wiring by turning motor on briefly. Reinstall the motor into the pump, fill with water, and enjoy the new silence!
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
2. Remove pump diffuser. Hold shaft at rear of motor with pliers/wrench, and spin impeller off shaft, counter-clockwise.
3. Lubricate 4 through-bolts with WD-40. Gently loosen and remove through-bolts. Mark or make a scratch across end bell and body of motor to line up later.
4. Use a flathead screw driver and small hammer to loosen and pry off the front end bell (the end where the impeller attaches).
5. If entire rotor does not come out, pry off the rear end bell.
6. Clean the bearings and look closely at the bearing number.
7. Using bearing pullers, pull off the old bearings. Clean the shaft and use a tamping tool, or a piece of pvc pipe to help set the bearing in place on the shaft.
8. Reassemble the rotor into the stator, secure the end bells in the marked or scored positions made earlier, and tighten down the through-bolts.
9. Reassemble the impeller, wear ring (if present), reverse threaded impeller screw (if present), diffuser and wiring to rear of motor.
10. Test motor wiring by turning motor on briefly. Reinstall the motor into the pump, fill with water, and enjoy the new silence!
For more info contact water pump suppliers in uae or call us at +971 4 252 2966
